Coconut oil
One of the few oils shown to get inside the hair fibre. Used before washing, it reduces the protein hair loses during wet combing.
- INCI name
- Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
- Origin
- Botanical
- Role
- Penetrating oil that limits protein loss
- Best for
- Pre-wash treatment on damaged or high-porosity hair · Hair that breaks during detangling
- Watch out
- Can feel stiff or "straw-like" on protein-sensitive or low-porosity hair; some people find it worsens flaking on the scalp.
What it does
Coconut oil is mostly lauric acid, a small, straight-chain fatty acid. A 2003 study comparing coconut, sunflower and mineral oil found that coconut oil was the only one of the three that reduced protein loss from both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a pre-wash or post-wash treatment. The authors attribute this to lauric acid's affinity for hair proteins and its ability to penetrate the fibre.
The flip side is that hair which already has plenty of protein, or a tight cuticle, can feel brittle after coconut oil. It is a treatment oil, not an everyday leave-in for everyone.
How we use it
Pre-wash protection for high-porosity and chemically treated profiles that show breakage. It is not used for low-porosity hair.
Helps with
Often paired with
- Argan oilEmollient oil for slip and shine
- Shea butterOcclusive butter that seals moisture in
- Aloe veraLightweight humectant and scalp soother
Sources
- Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage (Rele & Mohile, 2003) · Journal of Cosmetic Science
Educational only, not medical advice. Persistent scalp irritation, sudden hair loss or unexplained breakage warrant a visit to a dermatologist. Written by Cosmixxology R&D.