Dryness and breakage

Hair that feels rough, snaps when combed, and never seems to hold moisture.

Dry hair is usually hair that cannot hold water: a porous cuticle lets moisture out as fast as it goes in, and the fibre loses the flexibility that stops it snapping. The routine is water first, then something to keep it there, plus protein where damage has created gaps.

What is happening

Hair does not have a blood supply; once it leaves the scalp it is a dead fibre that can only be protected, not healed. Dryness means the outer cuticle has lost lipids and lies open, so water escapes quickly. Breakage follows because a dry, stiff fibre cannot stretch when you comb it.

Coily and tightly curled hair is dry more often, not because it lacks sebum but because sebum struggles to travel down a spiral. Chemical processing and heat open the cuticle further.

What helps

  1. 1. Water, then sealApply leave-in or conditioner to damp hair, then a butter or oil on the ends: shea for coils, argan or jojoba for finer hair.
  2. 2. Rebuild with protein, in moderationHydrolysed proteins such as quinoa fill gaps in a damaged cuticle and reduce breakage for a few washes. Alternate with moisture treatments so hair does not go stiff.
  3. 3. Protect before washingA coconut-oil pre-wash on damaged hair reduces the protein lost during wet combing.
  4. 4. Comb wet, gentlyDetangle with conditioner in, from the ends up, with a wide-tooth comb.

Ingredients to look for

Worth avoiding

  • Daily shampooing with sulfates
  • Bleaching or relaxing without a break between services
  • Tight styles that pull on wet hair

When to see a dermatologist

Breakage that comes with scalp pain, patches of short regrowth, or shedding of whole hairs with the root attached is a hair-loss question for a dermatologist, not a conditioner question.

Educational only, not medical advice. Persistent scalp irritation, sudden hair loss or unexplained breakage warrant a visit to a dermatologist. Written by Cosmixxology R&D.